The outbreak of 38 illnesses attributed to milk from The Family Cow has been a bad scene in any number of ways, from the ill consumers to the voluntary shutdown of milk from the dairy to the bad press. On this latter point, the Associated Press, the largest wire service in the country, published an article that highlighted both the illnesses and the popularity of raw milk–another reminder of how raw milk grabs media attention. 

It was late today (Monday) when The Family Cow received clearance from the Pennsylvania Department of Agriculture to resume selling raw milk. According to owner Ed Shannk, “Despite what many think, we have not found the state regulators hard to work with. Cautious, yes, following their rule book religiously, yes, but we understand their job and respect them.” 

On some level, the unfortunate experience of tainted milk from The Family Cow is already beginning to feel as if it has positive elements. Here are three I see:

1. The episode has encouraged The Family Cow to make some significant plant upgrades that owner Edwin Shank, the owner, says will improve safety. These include improvements to the dairy’s hot water system; installation of a web-based system to monitor control points in the milking, cooling and washing process; and setting up its own laboratory testing system.

The sign The Family Cow is finally able to put out again, after getting the all-clear from regulators. “Extremely hot water is needed for washing the milk tank, milking system and bottler,” Shank said in a letter to customers. “We suspect a hot water heater that was making hot water (140-150 degrees) but not super-hot (160-170 degrees) played a part in this (outbreak).  We replaced the older heater with a high tech, computerized ‘tank-less’ system that consistently delivers 180 degree water or hotter if we wish.”

 He says the new web-based monitoring system is very important because, “If the new water heater loses capacity slowly like our old one did, run out of propane or any other imaginable problem, the computer of this system will send an email alert to our smart phones instantly…It makes so much sense…fix the problem before it becomes a REAL problem!”

The new on-site lab will enable the dairy “to initiate a new test and hold protocol we have long dreamed of.  By test and hold, we mean we will test every lot of milk we bottle and hold it till the test show that it is clear to go. This is a major food safety improvement!” He likened it to “the difference between looking in your rear-view mirror vs. the windshield while driving.”  

2. It has changed the tone of discussion and debate on this blog, Yes, there are still arguments about whether raw milk is nutritionally and otherwise superior to pasteurized milk, but it seems as if there is more acceptance that people can, and do, become ill from consuming raw milk. I believe the absence of conclusive lab evidence in a number of other cases has always created a measure of doubt. The presence of conclusive evidence in unopened bottles of The Family Cow’s milk helped seal the deal. In so doing, it provided a measure of clarity that, yes, the people emailing and phoning owner Edwin Shank with tales of illness were indeed the dairy’s doing.

3. It has encouraged other dairy farmers and consumers alike to think more about safety. I’m impressed by those interested in learning more. For example, Cali Farmer lists a number of questions he has for Edwin Shank, and concludes that, based on the vagaries of the factory food system and increasingly compromised immune systems, “The milk should be cleaner than the days of our forefathers.” (To gain answers to the questions, I suggest Cali Farmer, and others, contact Shank directly, maybe once this crisis has eased; edwin@thefamilycow.com.)

It’s also raised awareness among consumers. I saw a question recently on a raw dairy listserve from a pregnant woman who wondered if a particular raw dairy farmer “regularly tests for listeria. I know he does various tests and keeps his animals clean and I trust him but I was wondering about this since I am pregnant now and there is all this talk about listeriosis being dangerous during pregnancy.”

Which brings me to an issue raised by a number of readers: the role of the Weston A. Price Foundation in disseminating information about food, and raw dairy in particular. Obviously, a number of people don’t trust the WAPF, feel it is dogmatic.

I’ve always thought the the WAPF’s reluctance to admit to the risks associated with raw milk stemmed from an understandable defensiveness born of unfair governmental targeting of raw dairies. I’m hopeful that the experience of The Family Cow will perhaps convince WAPF’s leadership that there is more value in transparency than defensiveness, and it will try to learn from the experience of Ed Shank. There is nothing to hide, after all. As Brian Oz4caster suggests in a comment following my previous post, the number of illnesses from raw milk remains relatively low compared with other foods.

Indeed, I see in Edwin Shank’s forthrightness a good preview for what the Raw Milk Institute should be about. Wouldn’t it have been useful to have an operating RAWMI providing lessons learned from the experiences of The Family Cow.

When all is said and done, I am convinced we will all owe Edwin Shank and his family a debt of gratitude, for exposing us all to a refreshing breath of fresh air. No marketing, no denials. Just the facts.

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There are a number of legislative initiatives on the docket, beginning with Indiana, Kentucky, Wisconsin, and New Jersey.
http://www.foodsafetynews.com/2012/02/raw-milk-games-already-underway-in-3-statehouses/

In New Jersey, I am told by Joseph Heckman, a Rutgers professor who was present at last Friday’s hearing, that the Assembly committee hearing the legislation permitting access to raw milk, passed it overwhelmingly, despite the fact that opponents brought up the recent illnesses in neighboring Pennsylvania at The Family Cow. The legislators “didn’t seem bothered,” according to Heckman.