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Cooking soft-boiled eggs at a hotel breakfast buffet in northern Italy. It’s been nearly a half-dozen years since I last visited Europe, and I wondered this time if the continent’s vaunted decline might also include its food. 

 

The economic problems of Greece, Spain, and Portugal are well known, as are the continent’s demographic challenges, and the troubling incidents of anti-Semitism that rear their ugly heads. In addition, there have been smaller concerns— reports of trains not being as precisely on schedule and streets not being as carefully tended to, Even in the food area, I’ve read that fast food and  factory food (like mass-produced French baguettes) have made further inroads, and general complaints that country French restaurants aren’t as special as they once were. 

 

Of course, one can’t necessarily draw hard conclusions from ten days of touring Switzerland, France, and Italy. But part of my time was spent being with Europeans, in their homes and at formal conference-type events in France and Switzerland. I’d say that while these European countries do shows signs of fraying around the edges, in the big battle raging between living food of the type Europeans are known for and the dead food that has taken over America and Canada, the living food is going strong in Europe. 

 

My evidence? Coming from the U.S, European food just tastes better. This goes for even common snack-like items like pretzels, fries, and pizza. Even at a simple informal reception in Switzerland, dominated by chips and raw veggies, there was a table with fresh French-style bread and wonderful brie. Indeed, as American foodies grow ever more nervous about ingesting bread, Europeans savor their bread, and well they should—it is always fresh and delectable, impossible to resist using it to dunk in olive oil or to mop up meat gravy.  And I suspect part of the reason food tastes better in general is that much of the dairy, including the pasteurized stuff, comes from grass-fed cows, and the fruits and vegetables from soil that is less depleted than in the U.S. Junk food isn’t drawn from the GMO corn and soy that dominates America’s food factories. 

 

I saw none of the agonizing that goes on in the U.S. over raw-versus-pasteurized cheeses. I was taken to a fondue restaurant in Switzerland near the French border, popular with locals from both Switzerland and France. Nowhere on the menu or in conversation with wait staff was there mention that the cheese, made from the milk of cows grazing on pasture (with their cow bells providing a sort of background music) adjoining the restaurant, was not only raw but in some cases aged less than the FDA-required 60 days. It was just cheese, not raw-milk-cheese. And it was deliciously rich and smooth, the best cheese fondue I have ever had the good fortune to taste.

 

Good food is a part of the culture. In Switzerland, where I participated in several Holocaust-related commemorations, a visit to a forest where Jewish children had been helped to escape by Swiss heroes began with a picnic. Families brought their own sandwiches or, in a number of cases, grilled marinated chicken and beautiful hot dogs. A number served their creations on real dishes with real silverware. 

 

But to me, the biggest food-related giveaway that I was in Europe and not the U.S. came with the eggs. Everywhere I have come across eggs, whether in private homes or restaurants, the yolks have been bright orange, coming out of eggs with hard shells… unlike the U.S., where the shells are nearly always soft and the yolks a pale yellow.

 

Having grown up with European parents (Holocaust survivors), soft-boiled eggs were a staple in my home, and still are in my own home. They are nearly impossible to find in American restaurants and hotels, presumably because of the American aversion for runny yolks and whites, and presumably because of food-safety fears promoted by America’s anti-raw-food  fear mongers.  (I’ve stopped asking for them at hotels, since more often than not, wait staff doesn’t even know what a soft boiled egg is.) To my joy, a Geneva hotel that is part of an American chain had soft-boiled eggs available to guests as part of its breakfast buffet. (I won’t name the chain, for fear the American corporation that controls the hotel will force the Geneva outlet to get rid of the egg offering, to avoid offending American food-safety busy bodies.)

 

Then, in Italy, the egg situation became even more fun. At the modest hotel I have stayed at in northern Italy, the breakfast buffet is dominated by a basketful of raw eggs (kept at room temperature), placed next to a contraption filled with boiling water and maybe ten egg holders where the eggs can be soft boiled to one’s own personal specifications (pictured above). Of course, they could just have been consumed raw, as well. Just to emphasize the point that soft-boiled eggs are the norm, the hotel has a sign posted that scrambled or fried eggs cost an extra $10. 


Getting used to the boiling contraption took some effort, since the eggs are different sizes, and thus come out at different variations of soft boiled. But they are always delicious, with their orange yolks. At long last, I am in my element. It’s good to know there still is a strong and thriving living-food continent out there.